|
 We
are pleased to present columns by Graceann Macleod.
 She is
a writer whose greatest loves are her husband David, her cat
Spike of dubious intelligence, silent and early sound
cinema, and road trips (usually to silent film events or
historic sites).
Graceann
Macleod is
the recipient of the Apex Award of Excellence for her column
"Scents Memory" which appeared in
Word Worth in May 2006.
 Graceann
Macleod's past columns are available here in Adobe
files. Click on the links below to access the Adobe
files. If you do not have Adobe on your computer, you
can download a free copy here:
...continued from the
columns page:
noticing the time getting away
from us. I bought a couple of books and accessories, and my
husband did some note-taking for future shopping. Then we got
to see Ruth’s Vintage Clothing and Retro 101, and I noted yet again
that vintage clothing does not end up surviving long enough for we
Women of Substance to enjoy. I did pacify myself with an
adorable little hat. I have absolutely no place to wear it,
but that didn’t stop me from adding it to my collection.
Time was getting away from us,
so we determined to get down to the Historic Riverfront and the
Gateway Arch. Even though you can see the Arch from almost
anywhere in the City, it was more difficult to get to than we
thought it would be, due to the number of one-way streets that
seemed to be leading away from our destination. We did finally
manage to find our
 way in to the complex, and started our hike.
It had been a very long time
since I had visited St. Louis, and at least 30 years since I had
been the top of the Arch. I freely admit that when I was last
there, I couldn’t have cared less about what it represented or the
history of its construction – I just wanted to get into the little
elevator and get going! However, I’m now ostensibly more
mature, and I was able to appreciate the time and effort that has
gone into this impressive monument.
Higher and Higher
The Gateway Arch was designed
by Eero Saarinen and completed in 1965, and I highly recommend the
film, “Monument to a Dream,” that is shown as part of your Arch
Experience. It helps you understand just how complex the
project was, especially for a time before computers were in wide use
for such undertakings. I’m sure I was shown this film as a
child, but what went over my head at the age of six fascinated me
now. Also present is the Museum of Westward Expansion which,
as the name implies, offers exhibits relating to exploration of the
American West, concentrating on Lewis and Clark. After
enjoying these offerings, we found that our timed tickets were ready
to be used for the climb to the top of the Arch, and we were quite
excited to get a bird’s eye view of St. Louis. We lined up for
the special elevators, which are actually capsules seating four
adults, for the four-minute ride to the top. The marvelous
National Park Service rangers have this production down to a fine
science, and provide you with interesting tidbits of information
while you wait for your ride to begin.
You’re the Top
Sixty-Three stories and 630
feet tall, the Arch provides views of Missouri and Illinois that
can’t be beat. It happened to be a beautiful clear day on our
visit, so the panoramic views were stunning. Many photos were
snapped as we made our way from one window to the next. I have
many phobias but, thank goodness, a fear of heights isn’t among
them, so I was able to enjoy this experience to the full. You
are allowed as much time as you wish at the top, and I believe we
spent about 30-45 minutes soaking up the view. After this, we
lined up for our return to terra firma via another four-minute ride
in those fun and funky elevators.
After some shopping and general
exploration of the complex, we headed back out into the heat to walk
along the River and to relax on the benches under the trees.
The Park Service has done an amazing job in making this a beautiful
place to rest and enjoy the view, whether you are standing at ground
level or looking down on the World from 630 feet above.
Moving Right Along Now
We slowly made our way to the
car and looked at maps to determine how best to keep the River in
view as we headed to our next destination, Hannibal. We
decided to stick with State Highway 79, which is part of the Great
River Road scenic byway, and connects with the River at various
towns. Certainly a more rustic and pleasant view than can be
seen as you whiz past on the interstate. It was a gorgeous
drive – not always directly on the river, but at various points you
get a view that makes the whole trip worthwhile. The highlight
of our journey was at Clarksville, right on the River and such a
lovely place. Full of artsy boutiques and a stunning
riverfront park that provided us with a resting place.
In the Heart of Twain Country
Hannibal, Missouri, where Mark Twain
spent his boyhood years, has made its fortune by its luscious
location and its legendary resident. As popular as Hannibal
continues to be, it still manages to retain its small-town charm.
As you wander the streets, you truly feel as if you have stepped
back in time. We were visiting in the Autumn and many
attractions tend to close by this time, but we lucked out in that
the Delta Queen cruise liner had docked for the morning, so the
proprietors of the buggy tours and other attractions reopened to
accommodate the flock of fun-seeking cruise guests. It was an
amazing thing to wake up and look out the window to find an enormous
paddle-wheeler out in front of the hotel where previously there had
been only River. After our breakfast, we rushed down to the
waterfront to have a closer look and to make reservations for our
own tour later in the afternoon.
The highlight of our visit was
a trolley tour. We traveled to the park where there are
panoramic views of the River, and went past several of the most
interesting Hannibal sites, including Rockcliffe Mansion and the
Twain Boyhood Home complex. Our guide was a marvelous lady who
simply screamed “local color,” much to our delight. We loved
her. After that, we took another, shorter jaunt on what is
called “The Clopper,” a horse-drawn tour. Pete the Horse is a
gentle, good-natured boy (he loves carrots, and his only fear is
plastic bags, we discovered) who slowly led us through the old
streets, while our guide gave us a wonderful, funny talk about the
history of the town. Because the Delta Queen had by now
departed, we had the tour all to ourselves and it was bliss.
After a quick lunch, we had a
leisurely river cruise which allowed us to sip cool drinks and sit
on the deck, watching the bluffs go by while listening to the
narration (which, by now, I think we could have done on our own!)
It was just what we needed after a morning of what felt like having
to be in one spot after another.
We had to leave the River after
Hannibal, and make our way due East for another destination, but we
so enjoyed being alongside, and on, the “Mighty ‘Mississip.”
The history here is right on the surface – no digging required.
It was lovely to escape monolithic, big-box culture and relax in
towns where people smile and say hello, ask how you are and actually
care about the answer. I look forward to exploring another
section of the River as soon as I can.
Recommended Websites:
History of our St. Louis Hotel:
http://www.stlouissixflags.holiday-inn.com/about/history.html
Information on Antiques Row in
St. Louis:
http://www.cherokeeantiquerow.net/
Gateway Arch
http://www.gatewayarch.com/Arch/index.aspx
Clarksville, MO
http://www.clarksvillemo.us/
Hannibal, MO
http://www.visithannibal.com/
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